Lift carrots as needed. Start lifting maincrop potatoes. Let the skins dry for a couple of hours before storing in a dark, frost-free place.

Outdoor tomatoes are unlikely to ripen much more if left on the plants so pick all trusses and bring them indoors
Water runner beans in the evening. Pick before they become tough and stringy. To check, snap a bean and pull the two halves away from each other; if a "string" down the margin of the bean remains attached, the bean is too old and will not make good eating.

Storing the harvest

Successful storage of fruit and vegetables starts early, before the harvest has even begun. Plants that have been grown in optimum conditions produce the best crops for storage. Immature crops, or those that have struggled to survive through lack of water, nutrients or pest and disease damage will not keep well.

Fragile - harvest with care!

Careful handling is essential. Once harvested, crops have no means of repairing any damage. Even quite sturdy-looking crops can easily be bruised. The damage may not show up immediately, but the likelihood of rots getting in later is greatly increased.

Select the best
Store only the best quality. Anything that has broken skin or shows any sign of pest or disease damage should not be stored.

Storage conditions

Although no longer actively growing, crops in storage are still alive and continue to breathe. Air circulation is important to provide oxygen and carry away the heat and moisture produced. Crops have different requirements for temperature and humidity (see below). Providing the correct conditions for each crop ensures the best results.

The storage location must be frost-free, safe from pests, rain-proof and ideally at a constant temperature. A garden shed or garage can be used, but may need extra insulation in severe weather. Basements, cellars or unheated rooms are also suitable. Attics are not very good due to fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Frequent health checks

Check stored produce regularly, preferably weekly. Remove anything showing signs of decay to prevent rots from spreading. The unblemished parts can often be salvaged for eating after cutting out the decay. If you end up only eating rotting produce, something's wrong! Either storage conditions are incorrect or the produce was not good quality to start with.

Vegetable storage

Carrots, parsnips, celeriac, beetroot, turnip, swede, kohlrabi, horseradish:

These crops all require the same conditions. They usually last well, as most are the storage organs of biennial plants, so would naturally stay dormant in the soil overwinter. Harvest carefully, taking care to avoid skin damage. Do not wash unless grown in very heavy soil or pest/disease damage is suspected. Harvest on a cool day or cool before storage. Remove leaves by twisting off close to crown. Place in layers in shallow crates/boxes separated with a damp packing material such as leafmould, sand, sieved soil, sawdust (from untreated wood only), coir.
Ideal temperature: 0°- 4°C.


Require slightly different conditions from other root crops. They must be kept dark to prevent them turning green and protected from low temperatures. If stored below 5°C the starch turns to sugar, giving them a sweet taste when eaten. Harvest in dry, cool conditions if possible. Remove any damaged tubers; store good ones in thick paper sacks closed at the neck to conserve moisture. Do not use plastic sacks - the humidity will be too high, which stimulates sprouting. Give extra insulation before weather becomes very cold.
Ideal temperature: 5°- 10°C.


Lift garlic when only 4-6 outer leaves have turned yellow. Leave onions longer, until the tops have completely died away. Do not bend tops over prematurely. Both need to be dried until skins "rustle", either in the sun or under cover. Store in nets, old tights or make into strings , and hang in a cool, dry place where air can circulate.
Ideal temperature: 2°- 4°C.

Pumpkins/winter squash/marrows:

Being of sub-tropical origin, these store best at a higher temperature with lower humidity than most other crops. They are very affected by growing conditions, as they need a few weeks of warm sun in August/September to develop a tough skin for successful storage. Harvest before the first frost, leaving as long a stalk as possible. Check for skin blemishes, and store in a dry, airy place, preferably on slatted shelves or hanging in nets.
Ideal temperature: 10°- 15°C.


There are still quite a few things you can sow in August.

•Spring Cabbage
•Chinese cabbage
•Lettuce (sow a hardy variety for winter use)
•Spring Onions (White Lisbon winter hardy)


When you have harvested your potatoes you might like to consider sowing a green manure crop. Mustard is fast growing and is supposed to confuse the potato eel worm into breeding at the wrong time. It is a brassica so don't use it if you suffer from club root.
Another fast growing crop you can use as a green manure is French beans. Even if you have enough beans to feed an army, the plant produces a fair amount of leaf and stem plus the roots, as with all legumes, have nodules containing bacteria that fix nitrogen from the atmosphere. Free fertiliser as well as organic matter.